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BOOR: Watering tips as 2019 winds down

Though this summer was exceptionally wet, recently we have had dry 
weather for much of Kansas.  Watering now is important if soils are dry 
to help alleviate moisture stress.
    

A good, deep watering with moisture reaching at least a foot down 
into the soil is much better than several light sprinklings that just 
wet the top portions of the soil. A deep watering will help ensure that 
the majority of roots have access to water. Regardless of the watering 
method used, soil should be wet at least 12 inches deep. Use a metal 
rod, wooden dowel, electric fence post or something similar to check 
depth. Dry soil is much harder to push through than wet.
    

Although all perennial plants benefit from moist soils before 
winter, it is especially important for newly planted trees and shrubs 
due to limited root systems. Even trees and shrubs planted within the 
last 2 to 3 years are more sensitive to drought than a well-established 
plant. Evergreens are also more at risk because moisture is lost from 
the foliage.
    

Trees or shrubs planted within the last year can be watered 
inexpensively with a 5-gallon bucket.  Drill a small hole (1/8″) in the 
side of the bucket near the bottom. Fill the bucket and let the water 
dribble out slowly next to the tree. Refill the bucket once more, and 
you have applied 10 gallons. Very large transplanted trees and trees 
that were transplanted two to three years ago will require more water.
    

A perforated soaker hose is a good way to water a newly established 
bed or foundation plantings.  However, soaker hoses are notorious for 
non-uniform watering. In other words, you often receive too much water 
from one part of the hose and not enough from another. Hooking both the 
beginning and the end of the soaker hose to a Y-adapter helps equalize 
the pressure and
therefore provide a more uniform watering. The specific parts you need 
are shown in the photo
above and include the soaker hose, Y-adapter and female to female 
connector. It is also helpful if
the Y-adapter has shut off valves so the volume of flow can be 
controlled. Too high a flow rate
can allow water to run off rather than soak in.
    

On larger trees, the soaker hose can circle the trunk at a distance 
within the dripline of the tree but at least ½ the distance to the 
dripline. The dripline of the tree is outermost reach of the
branches. On smaller trees, you may circle the tree several times so 
that only soil which has tree
roots will be watered.
    

If using a soaker hose, note the time watering was started. Check 
frequently to determine the amount of time it takes for water to reach 
12 inches. From then on, you can water “by the clock.”  Use a kitchen 
oven timer so you remember to move the hose or shut off the faucet. If 
you are seeing surface runoff, reduce the flow, or build a berm with at 
least a 4-foot diameter around the base of the tree to allow the water 
to percolate down through the soil, instead of spreading out. 

If you have any questions, or would like more information, you can contact me by calling 620-793-1910, by email at [email protected] or just drop by the office located at 1800 12th street in Great Bend. This is Alicia Boor, one of the Agriculture and Natural Resources agents for the Cottonwood District which includes Barton and Ellis counties. Have a good week!

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